Japan - A whole lot more than raw fish!

Japundit

February 16th, 2008 at 4:00 pm

191 Stars

michelinI always try to explain to people that Tokyo is a world class city and that if one is a foodie, it’s a must as a destination. Yes, I know that the language barrier is daunting. But all the essential signs are bilingual–I sometimes think that people are just wimps about being someplace “different.”

If you love food, you won’t find any people anywhere on the planet who are as enthusiastic about eating as the Japanese, and as devoted to ingredients and to food as a fully sensory experience. (Frankly, I don’t think you’ll find people any more enthusiastic than the Japanese when they get enthusiastic about something.) But where to go? Where to eat? How to eat? If you don’t speak the language, how do you get started and find something outside of the shelter of your Shinjuku hotel?

If you take any stock in the Michelin Guides, you will now have some help. The vaunted publication has assessed numerous eateries around Tokyo and awarded fully 191 with stars. That’s a big deal. Paris has 98. New York only 54! It’s the passion, declare, the critics.

At Le Mange-Tout, one of the 25 restaurants in the city to win two Michelin stars, owner-chef Noboru Tani goes home to his family only one night a week. He cheerfully describes his restaurant as a “prison.” He sleeps in a loft above the dining room.

“The samurai spirit is in me,” said Tani, 55. “The Japanese character is that we pursue one thing earnestly and with great diligence. For me, that object of diligence happens to be France.”

After a breathless description of chef Ozaki’s little restaurant, the writer of the MSNBC article concludes:

Since he got his star from Michelin, he’s had more customers than he knows what to do with. He’s been able to raise his prices just a bit, which helps pay the bills. Dinner is now $150.

His new problem is figuring out how he will manage success over the long run.

“I know only how to sprint,” Ozaki said. “I will need to be a marathoner.”

The restaurant itself isn’t named. Time to do some investigating before my next trip.

6
  • 1

    Why has the vaunted publication assessed numerous eateries around Tokyo and awarded fully 191 with stars ?

    My guess is that there are so many fake Japanese restaurants around the world and Michelin Guides staffs were just surprised at the authentic Japanese cuisine in Tokyo. Otherwise it’s overestimated.

    TofuUnion on February 16th, 2008
  • 2

    This may not be quite as notable as claimed, if one measures by how many restaurants per capita (dependent on the relevant city areas for the restaurants).

    Populations per Wikipedia (city area only):
    Tokyo: 12,790,000
    Paris: 2,153,600
    NYC: 8,214,426

    Going by these numbers, Tokyo would have about 15 starred restaurants per million people, while Paris has about 45.5 per million people (NYC would have 6.57). These may not be completely accurate, but shows that there may be more to this than sheer numbers of restaurants per city.

    In any case, I can’t afford such restaurants anyway. =(

    rkdn42 on February 16th, 2008
  • 3

    Wimps? Dude I’d french kiss Hillary Clinton at high
    noon in Times Square on public TV for a round trip
    ticket and lodging for a week in Tokyo.

    Of course my boss says I’m not right.

    MikeDane on February 17th, 2008
  • 4

    […] If you love food, you won’t find any people anywhere on the planet who are as enthusiastic about eating as the Japanese, and as devoted to ingredients and to food as a fully sensory experience. Frankly, I don’t think you’ll find people any more enthusiastic than the Japanese when they get enthusiastic about something. But where to go? Where to eat? How to eat? If you don’t speak the language, how do you get started and find something outside of the shelter of your Shinjuku hotel? Read the entire 191 Stars Article here… […]

  • 5

    Thanks for the article. I’m sure Tokyo has some amazing restaurants.

    “Dinner is now $150.”

    Uh…I’m sorry. Was this a typo? Are we talking about American dollars here?

    I’ve lived in a few big cities and I love food. But this whole culture of going out and spending money like this on a meal is preposterous. I live in central London right now and nothing tastes better than a steak I pick up in the market and cook myself at home. It costs me about 6 pounds total.

    Add some intimate lighting and nice conversation with my girlfriend and I’d much rather do this than spend $150 freaking bucks in a restaurant. Consequently, I will be able to afford to send my kids to college someday too.

    Furthermore, there is no chef who can make chicken gumbo like my mom and that costs me free.

    Vin

    Vin on February 21st, 2008
  • 6

    Mike, I’m quite sure YOU aren’t a wimp. I suspect you’d be quite capable of going beyond the confines of your hotel complex . . .

    Vin–That isn’t a typo. As for the cost of meals . . . I believe in eating low and high. Basically, I believe in eating. I don’t trust people who won’t eat “low.” Do I not trust people who won’t eat high? Hmm. No, I understand that point of view.

    Marie Mockett on February 21st, 2008

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