“It is prohibited to conduct any group demonstration, to carry flags, placards or wear group participation arm bands. It is also prohibited to assemble, hold group meetings, sitdowns, force interview, or use violence on visitors. In addition, the authorization of the management is necessary for the distribution of leaflets or notes, indoor and outdoor photography, peddling, street and stall vending, and all public activities.
a high-end Japanese spa in midtown, has just introduced a new “Geisha Facial,” which promises to cleanse, brighten, and exfoliate a patron’s face—thanks to a secret ingredient: bird poop. For centuries in Japan, both Kabuki actors and geishas used uguisu no fun, or nightingale droppings, to clean off their thick white makeup and soothe their faces; apparently, guanine, found in the droppings, helped their complexions.
Spam emailers have discovered that eating seaweed can miraculously rid women between the ages of 25 and 54 of the roll of fat around their middlesection.
Just take a couple of sea-weed tablets every day, and perhaps you too will see your weight plummet, so you too can join the ranks of women who enjoy the lowest rate of obesity in the world!
Personally, I’ll stick to weekly misoshiru and some nice sunomono with wakame.
The tininess and cuteness of the dogs, the care lavished on them, and the correspondence of their numerical growth with the decline in the number of babies suggest a kind of substitution at work. Are little dogs the babies of the 21st century?
At the same time that the birth rate in Japan is decreasing, and the number of pets are increasing, news reports cite the eerie trend that child abuse is rising. (Ditto for the US, some say). Let me be clear that I am not suggesting a causal relationship—at most, there would be a correlation. And obviously, one always wonders with these things if child abuse and other crimes are being reported differently than in the past, or if there is a true, statistically proven rise. Most people I spoke to in Japan this time felt strongly that the news really had become “worse” and more “bad things” were happening, but, as we’ve all noted, anecdotal evidence doesn’t rule the day.
On a somewhat related note, earlier this year I started hearing about “Dog Cafes,” eating establishments where dogs are welcome, and so set out to find a few. I was curious about the way in which animals are being integrated even further into everyday life in Japan.
A lot of these cafes seem to have little boutique dog shops attached. Snobbish Babies (a dog cafe in Nakameguro) sold dog-patterned toilet paper.
Inside was a wall of fame of photos of dog clients.
This Harajuku Dog Cafe included tasty treats in shapes meant to appeal to dogs–and their owners.
Next door you can shop for this year’s dog yukata patterns.
Not to be outdone, the cats are getting their own cafes too. (Note: I found out about cat cafes from a magazine and ran out of time to try to track the actual establishments down).
At this cafe, you can order a special set of food set to appeal to your pet. The rice even comes in a little cat-shaped face.
I share, along with JP, a love of animals (okay, I, too have a cat). However, I can’t help but wonder if some of these pet trends aren’t taking matters a little bit too far—-if the animals aren’t turning into expensive accessories akin to the Louis Vuitton bag of yore. I mean, is this kimono wearing dog aware that he is sitting in the audience of the theater, watching a play while his mistress wears Louis Vuitton monogrammed jeans?
This dog—-the photo is not so great, I know—-is dressed up as Mickey Mouse, except the ears fell of his head and slid back to rest on his neck, just above his collar. I wonder if this is some kind of souvenir from a trip to Disneyland.
The author of the Japan Times article who suggest that pets have become a replacement for babies in Japan, has also sought out a specific reason for the pet boom.
It boils down, theorizes Chuo University literature professor Masahiro Yamada, to the human longing to be needed, a longing ironically undermined by society’s greatest triumphs — freedom and independence. Independence breeds indifference, which is contagious. Only our pets need and love us unconditionally.
What do you think, oh Japundits, of the subject of pets in Japan and the decreasing population? Is it all related, and a reflection of what it means to be relatively well off, compared to non-developed nations, yet spiritually starving? I’m curious, as always, to hear your thoughts and experiences on the matter.
(I should point out here that the notion that a developed country has 1: a lower fertility rate and 2: a love of animals, isn’t a new observation and isn’t limited to Japan alone. These seem to be part and parcel of economic advancement.)
I’m not the only one to note the strange synchronicity of Ed’s post on recent Japanese earthquakes, and the very large tremor which rocked China this week. It feels a bit strange to blog about a part of Asia, and to not, at the very least, acknowledge the human tragedy, particularly since China has made the unusual gesture of asking other nations for help.
NPR has a rather harrowing, but gripping account of a family’s search for their two year old son. I can’t seem to embed the player, but you can hop over to the site, and click the “Listen Now” button to hear the narration, which will surely put a human face on this sprawling wreck of a story.
On Monday, Fu Guanyu dropped off her young son, Wang Zhilu, at his grandparents’ house so she could go to work. Minutes later, the earthquake hit.
She rushed back home and saw their apartment building in ruins. She says soldiers came right away to help, but they had no equipment.
He’s of mixed race, from the States, with a Japanese grandmother to whom he promised he would one day be an enka star. And now he is. Hip hop costume and all.
Not many people sing enka these days. Hitomi Shimatani, a fading pop-star, originally debuted as an enka singer, before moving on to do, well, pop. So, I think it’s incredibly cool that Jero has carved out a place for himself. Plus he sounds lovely.
You don’t necessarily need to understand Japanese to get the start of this video, which displays photos of Jero as a youngster, and shows him winning a “Japanese gong show” type program on NHK. Later, he’s challenged to see how many Enka songs he actually knows out of over 100. He wins every challenge. If you stick out to the end of the video, you’ll see him bust out a few dance moves.
I came home with the Jero single. I would never do the same for that other contrastingly talentless import. Now I am playing the sad, sad Umiyuki song over and over.
Three days into a trip in Japan and my mother and I were sitting in a coffee shop in Kyoto. In came a foreigner (meaning, a white woman) with two kids. I knew they were trouble, the sort of children to whom everything–including bad behavior–is “explained,” which seems to be a trend in child-rearing these days. The younger child, a girl, had a tendency to scream, to which her mother said, “Now, do you think this is a place where it is okay to scream? If you scream, you will have to play outside.”
The girl kept screaming.
After the third screaming, my mother, ever the ferocious enforcer when she wants to be, turned around and said quite sharply (and in English) “Hey! Stop it! This is Japan. You do not scream in Japan. That is not acceptable.”
Everyone–including me–was stunned. The girl was stunned. Her older brother, her tormenter who had been the cause of the screaming, was stunned. He even tried to defend his sister, but my mother turned her steely eyes on him and said, “No. You do not scream here. That does not work. End of story.” And, really, even though Japan has seriously changes since the Showa era and I don’t get the dog-and-MILF-thing, at least the kids don’t scream.
I felt sorry for the foreign mother. She looked harried, like she was just looking for some place to rest for, oh, fifteen minutes so she could caffeine it up a bit. I thought that her kids looked mixed–like me–but that she was divorced or separated. She did not seem married. Her daughter looked wild. None of them apologized. They just ate as quickly as possible and departed. The Japanese in the coffee shop pretended to ignore the whole thing. I was embarrassed. I hate being the center of attention. I like observing. But . . . I was secretly and enormously proud of my mother. Very proud of her to try to battle social ills and try to set them straight. I love that about her.
At the same time, it can be so unsettling to see your own children publicly scolded like that by a stranger. There have been times in Japan when I’ve had the impulse to stop someone from doing something embarrassing. What are your experiences? What do you think?
After my natto-bagel post, I’m sure that some of you expats were wondering just where you could get your sticky fingers on some real natto, without having to travel all the way to Ibaraki-ken. Well, guess what? You can get it in Tokyo! Across the street from Tokyo station, in the Shin-Marunouchi building, in the basement, is a natural food store. And there you will find, nestled in a nice cooling bin, real natto.
I’m of the opinion that there is good Engrish in the world. Sometimes, Japanese-style reconfigured English finds nuances in language and word play, and expresses an emotion or observation so much better than a irony-saturated native speaker could possibly do.
This mail box, which I photographed in Kyoto, was an example of wonderful Engrish (at least to me).
And this sign . . . not so good. I’m pretty sure that the “automatically full” references a toilet bowl with automated flushing capacity. Certainly this sign is at least bathroom related. Anyway, I pushed the button.
May Day in Kyoto not only involves a parade honoring International Worker’s Day, but also marks the opening of verandas in restaurants in Pontocho along the Kamogawa River.
A pair of maiko (apprentice geisha) shoes at the entrance of a Pontocho restaurant.
The restaurant where I ate had a little screen separating our area from the veranda next door. When I looked over, I spotted a camera crew setting up equipment. A little later, it became clear why the cameras were there.
A little breeze hit the screen, and in the opening, I could see a smiling maiko.
I’m pretty sure this was some kind of news crew documenting the start of the May and the opening of the verandas, which will be accessible till September 30th.
May is also the start of the Pontocho geiko dances at the Kaburencho.
Someone managed to catch a snippet of the dances last year, and upload it onto Youtube.
I recently attended Sakagura’s annual Hanami Sake Tasting. Sakagura is a (perhaps the) sake bar in New York, located in the basement of a building on the East Side in a neighborhood populated with small, authentic Japanese eateries.
I liked the sugidama hanging in the entry, all green, signaling fresh sakes!
The event was advertised as a “hanami” festival. I hadn’t expected that the decor would include so many real cherry blossoms, but sure enough, these flowers and all the others were real.
There were at least 50 sakes to try. I lost count of how many I drank. There was also food–which was quite good–but the focus was definitely on the drinking. I really liked some of the sakes I had that were made in Niigata and also in Akita
The gentleman in this photo works for “Sake Story,” which distributes from Atlanta. He was very friendly and also good at explaining what everyone was drinking.
All in all, it was a fine event and a great way to try many sakes all at the same time, and to develop a sense for what you like and why. The next tasting looks like it will take place in the fall. I’ll try to go if I can. In the meantime, this is a nice place to get some sake and some snacks if you are in New York and missing your sake fix.
I’m currently in love with this watch by LA based designer Tokidoki. The designer, Simone Legno, is actually from Italy, but with a keen eye, and a sense of humor (not to mention a Japanese girlfriend), he’s created a world of charming characters that remind one of the playful sensibility pervading the world of anime. No wonder he has a devoted cult following.
This summer is supposed to see the launch of several new Tokidoki products, including a special bag for Sportsac and a collaboration with Onitsuka Tiger. I’m really curious to see what the items will look like!
As you might have noticed, I spend a lot of time thinking and photographing what I eat in Japan. This is because food is very good in Japan; Japan is truly one of the great food cultures of the world. Even a Japanese person who has been in the US for twenty years and can’t imagine going back to the homeland for fear of engaging in unwelcome social norms and pressures will wax nostalgically about the food. The only other thing such a person will might as much are onsen (hot spring baths). But that’s another subject.
One of the first things I spotted in Japan was this poster of a “Gourmet Fest(ival)” for wild vegetables. See? The seasonality of food is so important there is a fest(ival)! I wrote last year of the experience of picking fuki no to and later tsukushi. If you find yourself lucky enough to be in the mountains during the spring, then you don’t need a fest(ival), but can pick your own vegetables.
In Himeji, I spotted this farmer’s cart laden with sansai. I immediately ran over to take a photo and wanted very much to buy everything she had for sale. I assume that she was a she. I never saw her. And I doubt that the enthusiastic gaijin taking photos was going to prompt her to come out to see me. Or perhaps everything was for sale on an honor system. This is still done in Japan.
I was initially most excited by the bamboo shoots for sale. Look at them! How big and fresh and appetizing! You may remember that I have something of a passionfor freshbamboo shoots. Characters in my novel eat said shoots early on in the book; seeing the shoots for sale here made me think about Rumi and Satomi.
She was also selling tsukushi. If you don’t remember why this “wild weed” is so important to me, here’s a refresher.
If I’d been staying a ryokan that night, I might have picked up a few things and handed them to the cook. But instead, we had to let all those nice, appetizing vegetables go. Isao, however, had arranged for us to visit a supermarket. And as you can see, there were plenty of seasonal foods for sale there too–all nicely wrapped in plastic, as food is in Japan.
If those ferns look familiar, it’s because Isao included them in his Himeji hanami bento.
At some point, I mean to write a longer article on the subject of wild vegetables. I’ll just conclude by saying that my mother heads out to the hills of California every spring to search for these vegetables, many of which are available but not appreciated in the States. Now, to give you a sense of our values and how much my mother loves me, she actually Fed Exed me a package of her harvest so I could enjoy the flavors. So it was that I made my first batch of tempura with wild ferns. I seem to have misplaced my photos; here then are some from California when my mother made hertempura with wild vegetables.
Lest you think my mother loves me more than I love her, know that I have been known to Fed-ex a package of ramps and fiddle-heads from New York to California (she promptly went on to try to plant the ramps in her garden). The ramps have started showing up in our local farmer’s market in New York, and I tried out our favorite (and easy) miso recipe on them. I’ll post the information for preparing ramps a-la-Japonaise another time.
Fiddleheads are due out next month. I’ll be back from Japan by then and imagine that another Fed-Ex package will soon be hurtling its way across the US to a kitchen in California.
I was intrigued by the little stopper that comes with Starbucks drinks in Japan. It’s basically a little stirrer, with a wide area on top that fits the sipping hole, like a second lid. This is very practical. It means that no hot liquid will jump out of your cup and scald your legs or hand. Can’t we get some of these little things in the US?
I’m pretty sure TPTB meant “No graffiti.” But the most appropriate English phrase in Japan is often rewritten to become what a Japanese person feels would be the correct expression, if only English were spoken as it is supposed to be. Or so a certain translator tells me.
Knowing how I love natto, friends arranged for me to eat the real thing.
It comes wrapped in straw, like this. Open up the straw bundle (which is held together by a piece of string I didn’t photograph, so intent was I on unpuzzling the package) and out pops a dollop of natto.
It was really, really good and lacked the smell that some find so offensive from packaged natto.
Once upon a time, train stations in Japan clicked and clattered. It was common to give your ticket to a ticket man who clipped a hole in your paper ticket. While waiting for the next passenger, the ticket man rattled his hole puncher rhythmically. Icoca, Suica, Pasmo and other automated systems have mostly rendered the ticket man obsolete.
But one meticulous person took some of those spent tickets and put together a mosaic. I think I saw these creations somewhere in Osaka–I just can’t remember if it was at Kix, or some other station (I was jet-lagged). A rather creative use of old tickets, I think.